Stripped engine mount bolt

FZ1inNH said:
It actually worries me because I need to remove the right slider and replace it after my recent off. I've been reluctant to do so based on thread stress between torques!
Click to expand...

Hey Eric,

Would you do two things please:

1) Tell us if the slider helped in the lay down?
2) Report back on how the slider removal turns out

I'm nervous also.

Thanks,

Ty
 
Johnnylane said:
Hey Eric,

Would you do two things please:

1) Tell us if the slider helped in the lay down?
2) Report back on how the slider removal turns out

I'm nervous also.

Thanks,

Ty
Click to expand...

This was the T-Rex Long slider. I can report that it absolutely helped in the laydown. I did a low-speed high-side and the damage was VERY minimal. There was zero damage to the frame and engine which are the two key components that these sliders are designed to protect.

I will update on the removal and replacement of the right slider this weekend. :D Hope this helps! I do have a thread with pics of the damage here somewhere... Check the Hall of Shame. ;)
 
Can't believe I get to ride my FZ1 to work this morning in bright sunshine - lets hope this is good oman! I personally don't want to be touching those bolts holding the frame sliders again till its next service as its knocked my confidence to know if I really understand what I'm doing with a torque wrench. Good luck with your removal Eric and sorry to hear you had an off.

Thanks for the advise though and I'll certainly keep my future posts regarding the issues I've had with this dealer civil and factual (In hindsight my last post probably shouldn't have ended with that comment - heh)
 
FZ1inNH said:
This was the T-Rex Long slider. I can report that it absolutely helped in the laydown. I did a low-speed high-side and the damage was VERY minimal. There was zero damage to the frame and engine which are the two key components that these sliders are designed to protect.
Click to expand...

For what i's worth, my frame sliders TopBlock did a fantastic job protecting my bike's frame and engine. No damage noted to the bolt and thread.

See thread http://www.998cc.org/forum/fz1-general-discussion/8359-byciclers-versus-fz1-roundabout-1-0-a.html
 
Hey guys try a dial indicator instead of the click style torque wrench it will be way more accurate and if the stress on the threads is a big worry I would try to just snug them and use locktite. Off the top of my head I can't remember which one you don't need heat to take off but that shouldn't be to hard to find out when shopping for some.
 
Etroze said:
Hey guys try a dial indicator instead of the click style torque wrench it will be way more accurate and if the stress on the threads is a big worry I would try to just snug them and use locktite. Off the top of my head I can't remember which one you don't need heat to take off but that shouldn't be to hard to find out when shopping for some.
Click to expand...

Red is high strenght and needs heat to remove, blue is medium strenght. It is my understanding that locktight should NOT (not even medium strenght) be used on aluminum threads, only on steel.
 
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