Zady5 Throttle Snatch Method

I would say it's worse between 2000 & 3500 rpm , it's like you've turned the motor off for a split second every time you close the throttle & reapplie
thanks


This is 100% not from fuel cut... this is either a kinked fuel line or caused by another modification that has been done.
(Fuel cut is way above this range)

What else has been done to the bike that is performance related?

Subthrottles stock?

Power commander?

Do the subthrottles cycle when you turn the key on?
You will have to remove the airbox to check this



Ivan
 
This is 100% not from fuel cut... this is either a kinked fuel line or caused by another modification that has been done.
(Fuel cut is way above this range)

What else has been done to the bike that is performance related?

Subthrottles stock?

Power commander?

Do the subthrottles cycle when you turn the key on?
You will have to remove the airbox to check this



Ivan

bike has remus slip on & piper cross filter apart from that it is stock
sub throttle plates cycle fine
bike has been like this from the day I got it approx 3 years ago ,, its a 2006 model and the fuel cut around the 5000 rpm mark was unbearable ,, I since fitted a later ecu from a 2008 bike and this has changed it no end , apart from the low down revs .. to explain a little more "" imagine changing gear and leaving the throttle off whilst you do this so the bike slows before you can select the next gear and increase speed ,, most noticed in first 3 gears ,, its fine in the higher gears and rev range ,, as I said if Im gentle with it and don't close the throttle right off when changing its fine ... I just figured they are all like it
Dale
 
bike has remus slip on & piper cross filter apart from that it is stock
sub throttle plates cycle fine
bike has been like this from the day I got it approx 3 years ago ,, its a 2006 model and the fuel cut around the 5000 rpm mark was unbearable ,, I since fitted a later ecu from a 2008 bike and this has changed it no end , apart from the low down revs .. to explain a little more "" imagine changing gear and leaving the throttle off whilst you do this so the bike slows before you can select the next gear and increase speed ,, most noticed in first 3 gears ,, its fine in the higher gears and rev range ,, as I said if Im gentle with it and don't close the throttle right off when changing its fine ... I just figured they are all like it
Dale

Sounds to me like it's very lean... the rpm range that you describe does not have fuel cut. Is the O2 sensor still connected?

If so, try disconnecting it and see if it improves. If not, you are going to need to add fuel somehow.

Try the O2 first and see. (one step at a time)


Ivan
 
Sounds to me like it's very lean... the rpm range that you describe does not have fuel cut. Is the O2 sensor still connected?

If so, try disconnecting it and see if it improves. If not, you are going to need to add fuel somehow.

Try the O2 first and see. (one step at a time)


Ivan

Disconnected 02 sensor as you suggested and has made a big difference , it's 80% better , I guess I need to get a pc on there at some point , in the mean time is it safe to run with the 02 unplugged for now or will it lean out at high rpm , thanks Ivan your a top man
 
Disconnected 02 sensor as you suggested and has made a big difference , it's 80% better , I guess I need to get a pc on there at some point , in the mean time is it safe to run with the 02 unplugged for now or will it lean out at high rpm , thanks Ivan your a top man


Throw it into the woods (literally) :)

Your engine will thank you by running cooler.


Ivan
 
Is that right, you can put a later ecu on a 2006 bike?
I have the same problem as this with fuel cut. It's a royal pain in the butt. I'm getting my ecu firmware updated today and I'm hoping this will cure the problem. So unplugging the O2 sensor helps too yes, what does it actually do by not having it plugged in?
Cheers

Delta
 
The later bikes are just as jerky in the upper rpm range... (not worth changing ecus in my opinion for aggressive riders)

My flash is the only one that actually disables fuel cut 100% in all the places and conditions that it exists.
This was no easy task... it took months of daily work and testing to understand how this particular ecu functions in order to completely eliminate it.

The O2 sensor is nothing but a nanny for the government to keep the engine as lean as possible during cruise and light acceleration... a narrow band cannot be used (with good results) to keep the engine in the best mixture for performance and smoothness.
Again, it's only there to keep it lean and as low emissions as possible without regard to performance and smoothness.

Not having it plugged in (in an unaltered ecu), has no detriment... only better performance.... (on this bike)
Depending what the programmer did with it's function is how it will act by not having it plugged in.
(in other words, I don't know what your programmer/software did, so I cannot answer you for your particular case)

Just because the software says it does something, it may, or may not actually do what it says what it does.... It may actually do something other than what the function is labeled as...... This depends on how accurate the software's definitions are.
This is not the fault of the man tuning the bike unless he is the file disassembler.

I'm not going to go any further on this subject because it will be interpreted by some as me flaming other people and their offerings.

Doing this type of work without an external fuel controller just causes grief and downtime in my opinion... the new PCFC from power commander is very inexpensive 1/3 less than a PCV and does the same job. (does not accept any accessories... quick shift, autotune, etc...) This makes the fueling adjustable by anyone and is easier to adjust.




Ivan
 
The later bikes are just as jerky in the upper rpm range... (not worth changing ecus in my opinion for aggressive riders)

My flash is the only one that actually disables fuel cut 100% in all the places and conditions that it exists.
This was no easy task... it took months of daily work and testing to understand how this particular ecu functions in order to completely eliminate it.

The O2 sensor is nothing but a nanny for the government to keep the engine as lean as possible during cruise and light acceleration... a narrow band cannot be used (with good results) to keep the engine in the best mixture for performance and smoothness.
Again, it's only there to keep it lean and as low emissions as possible without regard to performance and smoothness.

Not having it plugged in (in an unaltered ecu), has no detriment... only better performance.... (on this bike)
Depending what the programmer did with it's function is how it will act by not having it plugged in.
(in other words, I don't know what your programmer/software did, so I cannot answer you for your particular case)

Just because the software says it does something, it may, or may not actually do what it says what it does.... It may actually do something other than what the function is labeled as...... This depends on how accurate the software's definitions are.
This is not the fault of the man tuning the bike unless he is the file disassembler.

I'm not going to go any further on this subject because it will be interpreted by some as me flaming other people and their offerings.

Doing this type of work without an external fuel controller just causes grief and downtime in my opinion... the new PCFC from power commander is very inexpensive 1/3 less than a PCV and does the same job. (does not accept any accessories... quick shift, autotune, etc...) This makes the fueling adjustable by anyone and is easier to adjust.




Ivan

Well thank you Ivan for that very fast reply. I will have to find out what my tuner has done and can do. Good info explanation cheers

Delta.
 
The O2 sensor is nothing but a nanny for the government to keep the engine as lean as possible during cruise and light acceleration... a narrow band cannot be used (with good results) to keep the engine in the best mixture for performance and smoothness.
Again, it's only there to keep it lean and as low emissions as possible without regard to performance and smoothness.

Not having it plugged in (in an unaltered ecu), has no detriment... only better performance.... (on this bike)

Ivan

Ok, I’m guessing my totally stock ’06 is similar to delbert’s bike - very tough to execute smooth shifts even below 4000 rpm. Would the only downside to unplugging the O2 be worse mileage? (Maybe on a cross-country road-trip it would be better to plug it back in and let it run on the lean side for better econ? )

BTW – I just purchased (from another user here) an unopened / still sealed bag FCE which I have not yet installed. Looking forward to seeing how it works now that I’m more comfortable on the bike and riding it harder. I’m finally realizing how bad this snatch is…

Thanks for your input Ivan.

And sorry for the semi-hijack of your thread Zady5. I’ve enjoyed reading it and looking forward to hearing if some of the others try your modification!

Mark
 
Ok, I’m guessing my totally stock ’06 is similar to delbert’s bike - very tough to execute smooth shifts even below 4000 rpm. Would the only downside to unplugging the O2 be worse mileage? (Maybe on a cross-country road-trip it would be better to plug it back in and let it run on the lean side for better econ? )

BTW – I just purchased (from another user here) an unopened / still sealed bag FCE which I have not yet installed. Looking forward to seeing how it works now that I’m more comfortable on the bike and riding it harder. I’m finally realizing how bad this snatch is…

Thanks for your input Ivan.

And sorry for the semi-hijack of your thread Zady5. I’ve enjoyed reading it and looking forward to hearing if some of the others try your modification!

Mark

you can try my device, is simple and work fine, is very cheap and you can back when you wont
 
Zady, I would bet that your fix would be fine for 90 percent of the people who are having trouble with the throttle snatch issue. Seems like an awesome and cheap fix to try.[/QUOTE



it 's true, but no one believes and no evidence, my bike fz1 2007 work fine after my mod.:rolleyes:
 
Zady, I would bet that your fix would be fine for 90 percent of the people who are having trouble with the throttle snatch issue. Seems like an awesome and cheap fix to try.

I think messing with diodes and soldering things together has some folks intimidated. It's not a a very common thing to mess with these days. Have a look at Radioshack, they are now in bankruptcy.
 
Ok, I’m guessing my totally stock ’06 is similar to delbert’s bike - very tough to execute smooth shifts even below 4000 rpm. Would the only downside to unplugging the O2 be worse mileage? (Maybe on a cross-country road-trip it would be better to plug it back in and let it run on the lean side for better econ? )

Mark

I reckon im loosing 20 miles to a tank with the o2 disconnected ,,
 
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