FZ1 -07 Turbo (pictures)

jlewis02 said:
Nice numbers man looks like 248hp
Got a print out to show?
Click to expand...

As a reference a FZ1 -07 with powercommander (tuned) and a slipon did 137 horspower.

Bacardi_AVT said:
Couldn't read it but they say in the video 251
Click to expand...

That was the very fist pull with my setting from the roadtests.

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End result

Helmut.JPG


helmut2.JPG
 
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First thing very nice
Second what gearing do you have if its stock you need to go up one on the front or down 3-4 on the rear
Put some race fuel in it and up the boost and hit 300 on that thing that would be even more insane.
 
jlewis02 said:
First thing very nice
Second what gearing do you have if its stock you need to go up one on the front or down 3-4 on the rear
Put some race fuel in it and up the boost and hit 300 on that thing that would be even more insane.
Click to expand...

I can do 300hp if I would like to, I can boost up to 1,3bar (on pump gas). But i dont want to.
 
It ran 30psi of boost??? Thats awesome!!!!!!!
I had a car that had a 3.0ltr 6 cyl nissan RB30 with a turbo that ran about 14psi intercooled and it was a weapon. I ended up fitting a custom engine management system to it and it ran very well.
So well done Alex! It's great to see it working so well. Hope you enjoy it lots.
 
Mr Helmut said:
I can do 300hp if I would like to, I can boost up to 1,3bar (on pump gas). But i dont want to.
Click to expand...

On the dyno print out, it says 210kpa. When you say you can go to 1.3bar for 300hp, does that mean that the 2bar on the print out is really only 1bar minus atmospheric pressure? (1bar for atmospheric pressure + 1.1bar boost pressure above atmospheric = 210kpa?)
So your 1.3bar would be about 230kpa on the dyno? Have i read all that correct? I know that atmospheric is 1bar=100kpa=14.7psi but i'm just confused, but I don't want to second guess you, i'm just confused - but excited for your success at the same time!
 
scottyd said:
On the dyno print out, it says 210kpa. When you say you can go to 1.3bar for 300hp, does that mean that the 2bar on the print out is really only 1bar minus atmospheric pressure? (1bar for atmospheric pressure + 1.1bar boost pressure above atmospheric = 210kpa?)
So your 1.3bar would be about 230kpa on the dyno? Have i read all that correct? I know that atmospheric is 1bar=100kpa=14.7psi but i'm just confused, but I don't want to second guess you, i'm just confused - but excited for your success at the same time!
Click to expand...

Correct.

100kps is atm
I had a pressure of 210kpa (110kpa boost)

And if you do the theoretical calc, 1 bar of overboost means the double of horsepower.

137hp original + 1,1 bar is 287hp.
137hp ........ + 1,3 bar is 315hp

1,1bar is 16psi (bad unit)

But last week my frame broke on the right side. And I have seen that many had it. The weld is completly opened so I have some work to do.
 
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Mr Helmut said:
Correct.

100kps is atm
I had a pressure of 210kpa (110kpa boost)

And if you do the theoretical calc, 1 bar of overboost means the double of horsepower.

137hp original + 1,1 bar is 287hp.
137hp ........ + 1,3 bar is 315hp

1,1bar is 16psi (bad unit)

But last week my frame broke on the right side. And I have seen that many had it. The weld is completly opened so I have some work to do.
Click to expand...

Thanks Alex. Sorry to hear about your frame.

Have you spoke to a Yamaha dealer about it yet. There have been a few people in the USA that have had the frames fixed or replaced free of charge by Yamaha. It might be worth a phone call to find out.

Anyone else like to fill Alex in on the frame cracking history?
 
scottyd said:
Thanks Alex. Sorry to hear about your frame.

Have you spoke to a Yamaha dealer about it yet. There have been a few people in the USA that have had the frames fixed or replaced free of charge by Yamaha. It might be worth a phone call to find out.

Anyone else like to fill Alex in on the frame cracking history?
Click to expand...

I have imported the bike from Germany to Sweden so im not sure that they will replace me with a new one.

But I have an idea how to make it stronger in that joining so I thinking of welding and pouder paint the frame.
 
Mate that is just an outstanding job on the turbo, great engineering. The frame is just crap, why Yamaha was not FORCED to have product safety recall on 06 and early 07 bikes is beyond me. They have known about it since 06 and it is a dramatic terminal failure. Yamaha have recalled a lot of bikes for less serious problems, perhaps we should contact the authorities in our respective countries and see if they are aware of Yamaha's failure to recall these bikes ?
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/motorcycle_recalls/01/yamaha/index.html
 
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scottyd said:
You may still get it repaired (welded) with Yamaha paying for it.
Have a read thru some of these for some history/others experiences if you like:
http://www.998cc.org/forum/fz1-streetfighter/9703-gutted-crack-weld-frame.html
http://www.998cc.org/forum/gen-ii-tech/7407-cracked-frame.html
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I will check it out.

jesjames9598 said:
Mate that is just an outstanding job on the turbo, great engineering. The frame is just crap, why Yamaha was not FORCED to have product safety recall on 06 and early 07 bikes is beyond me. They have known about it since 06 and it is a dramatic terminal failure. Yamaha have recalled a lot of bikes for less serious problems, perhaps we should contact the authorities in our respective countries and see if they are aware of Yamaha's failure to recall these bikes ?
Yamaha Motorcycle Recalls | View Yamaha Motorcycle Safety Problems & Recall Lists at Motorcyclist Magazine
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Thanks :) It is dangerus with frames that is this bad. What could have hapend if the other side also had broken.

johnnyontherocks said:
Its a known issue you will probably get a replacement. I would remove the turbo stuff first.
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ok.

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Other questions:
Does a r1 2008 front fork fit "bult on"?
What steeringdamper is good?
 
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I think it was Ballmead who had the same crack. I don't recall if Yamaha replaced it or not. You may want to drop him a PM.

Sent from my MB508 using Tapatalk
 
Same thing happened to my 06 model. I noticed it giving the bike a clean after a good workout on the track the previous day (scary stuff ha!!!), i ended up getting it rewelded locally. Yeah it sucks, i had to pull the motor and strip her down but at least i know that the frame is 100% now. Apparently this is a common problem on the 06-07 bikes but i would check my frame regardless of what year. Personally, for safety reasons i think Yamaha should have recalled all 06-07 models and replaced the frames, imagine a fatality resulting in a frame failure?.
 
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Mr Helmut said:
I have imported the bike from Germany to Sweden so im not sure that they will replace me with a new one.

But I have an idea how to make it stronger in that joining so I thinking of welding and pouder paint the frame.
Click to expand...

Hi Mr Helmut, Im not surprised your frame broke on the weld. Thats one of the FZ1 weak points. It was probably on the cards runing 286hp. Good luck with your reweld and put some doubling plates on the inside to beef up that area up so it can handle that nice hp you have. They wont give a new frame after a turbo was fitted, better to just get on with it and fix it yourself.:frown:
 
DJ NEZZ said:
Hi Mr Helmut, Im not surprised your frame broke on the weld. Thats one of the FZ1 weak points. It was probably on the cards runing 286hp. Good luck with your reweld and put some doubling plates on the inside to beef up that area up so it can handle that nice hp you have. They wont give a new frame after a turbo was fitted, better to just get on with it and fix it yourself.:frown:
Click to expand...

The frame broke before I tried it in the dyno and boosted it to the max. And a frame dont get the forces from horsepower to make damage like this (wrong side). Landing the frontwheel creates pull-force in the lower side of the frame and push-force in the upper part.

This is from when the front wheel lifted and landed. I heard a sound when the frontwheel touched the tarmac.

Anyway, it will be fixed somehow and it is because of the bad manufacturing of the frame..... if a weld is correctly done, the weld is stronger than the material around it.

I would not fit plates on the inner side, but on the lower side to make the joining stronger to stand the pulling force in the lower side.
 
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