NJFZ1
Moderator
That Nitron shock should work out very nicely on the FZ1. Several members here are using that shock (as you probably know).
Eric's Gen II Suspension notebook w/ Penske & USD Forks DIY manual!
- Thread starter FZ1inTX
- Start date
That Nitron shock should work out very nicely on the FZ1. Several members here are using that shock (as you probably know).
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
Very nice!!! That will help a LOT with the rear. :tup:
javahaxxor
Wizard
CrazyBiker
Wizard
Eric, try different oil weights in each leg. I think Duken4vr recommended 10wt on the compression side to reduce the high speed compression and 5wt on the rebound side. Mixing both to get 7 wt has worked well for a few folks too.
javahaxxor
Wizard
I know about Ballmead, but I'm glad other people also think it's good. I'm going to try to install it myself tomorrow evening. What better for a friday evening, than some german micro-brewery beer, and some quality time with my bike
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
Yes, I dragged his findings over here and created a thread. Since I am changing out the springs for heavier ones, I'm going with the 5w in the rebound and the 7w in the compression (left) leg. Combined with the spring, I hope it will suffice until I can get the AK 20 setup. Racetech doesn't have the gold valve set for the FZ1 so I'm going to have to rely on Lee or swap to the R1 forks. Lee had talked about putting a reversed rebound valve in the compression leg with a shim stack too but there's nothing on his site. I may have to call and if the price is right, send only the left leg to Lee to have him convert it to the reversed rebound valve.
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FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
The parts arrived today as promised by UPS. Sunday is looking to rain so it might be the day of fork building. Maybe I'll take them off Saturday night and get them to the point of draining. Then Sunday I can dig right in.
I already printed out pages 4-46 thru 4-53 of the service manual so I've got all the torque specs, oil level, exploded view, etc... Should be a walk in the park, right? I mean.... what could possibly go wrong?
I'll be completing one leg at a time so no parts get mixed up. I notice the manual stresses the different internals several times. Now, who would take apart BOTH forks at the same time? :nono: :rtfm: :hellno:
I already printed out pages 4-46 thru 4-53 of the service manual so I've got all the torque specs, oil level, exploded view, etc... Should be a walk in the park, right? I mean.... what could possibly go wrong?
I'll be completing one leg at a time so no parts get mixed up. I notice the manual stresses the different internals several times. Now, who would take apart BOTH forks at the same time? :nono: :rtfm: :hellno:
Hellgate
Wizard
10wt is WAY too heavy, stick with what the factory recommends in the fork department. USDs like a light oil, unlike the FZ6 fork.
BDazzler
Wizard
I can't afford a new Penkse rear shock for a while, but I hope to make the investment next year.
How much do you estimate the fork rebuild to cost? (if you don't mind me asking) I'll need to do that too. I'll need stiffer springs and the heavier weight oil.
Thanks for all your documentation and instruction. I'm glad it made such an improvement. It makes me want it more!
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
Troy, the ballpark is $110 for the springs, $24 for the oil, $45 for the fork seals, dust caps, o-rings and crush washer. I bought the tools for $100. Without the tools, right around $200.
Cheap enough if it makes some gains. Being 220 lbs, the stock forks are squishy and there's a lot of dive. I've got no more room for pre-load and it is still too soft. These should give me room to actually make adjustments that I'll notice. (I hope!) If not, I'll have to start my Army boot camp and drop at least 25 lbs. :eek5: :disturbed
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
USD Fork rebuild
First thing right away. You CANNOT do this by yourself. You will need help exactly 4 times. All four times involve compressing the springs and putting in/taking out the retainer tool.
I'm going to label this a moderate job only because I was replacing springs and had to calculate some things.
This will be at least 4 posts due to the amount of pictures. I hope I did a good enough description. and I KNOW the bike is very dirty. I was caught in showers on my last commute home. I promise she'll get washed tomorrow evening.
First, is the before shot of course! This is after setting the fork back to stock settings as described a few posts back in this thread. Also at this time, with a 24mm wrench, loosen both end caps on the fork tubes one full turn. The O-Ring will hold any oil in... no worries!
Couldn't find my special block so three bricks stacked work perfectly to lift the bike so both wheels float.
With the wheel up, off came the fender.
Then the brakes and wheel came off. Brake calipers were bungied to the frame sliders.
The wheel. You can still see on this tire where Michele slid on the paint and wrecked her shoulder later last year. Remember I swapped wheels and tires with her.
Cut the zip ties for stuff on the fork and dropped the compression leg out. Two pinch bolts on the bottom triple, one on the top and out she came. Make sure you hold on to the bottom of the fork when you loosen the top triple!
Both forks out and she looks pretty angry about this!
Once the forks are out, choose a side and work that leg start to finish then do the other leg. Here, I have unscrewed the cap and with help, compressed the fork and clipped in the retainer. I'm now ready to unscrew the cap to release the spring assembly.
First thing right away. You CANNOT do this by yourself. You will need help exactly 4 times.
All four times involve compressing the springs and putting in/taking out the retainer tool. I'm going to label this a moderate job only because I was replacing springs and had to calculate some things.
This will be at least 4 posts due to the amount of pictures. I hope I did a good enough description. and I KNOW the bike is very dirty. I was caught in showers on my last commute home. I promise she'll get washed tomorrow evening.
First, is the before shot of course! This is after setting the fork back to stock settings as described a few posts back in this thread. Also at this time, with a 24mm wrench, loosen both end caps on the fork tubes one full turn. The O-Ring will hold any oil in... no worries!
Couldn't find my special block so three bricks stacked work perfectly to lift the bike so both wheels float.
With the wheel up, off came the fender.
Then the brakes and wheel came off. Brake calipers were bungied to the frame sliders.
The wheel. You can still see on this tire where Michele slid on the paint and wrecked her shoulder later last year. Remember I swapped wheels and tires with her.
Cut the zip ties for stuff on the fork and dropped the compression leg out. Two pinch bolts on the bottom triple, one on the top and out she came. Make sure you hold on to the bottom of the fork when you loosen the top triple!
Both forks out and she looks pretty angry about this!
Once the forks are out, choose a side and work that leg start to finish then do the other leg. Here, I have unscrewed the cap and with help, compressed the fork and clipped in the retainer. I'm now ready to unscrew the cap to release the spring assembly.
FZ1riderNY
Moderator
Yeah!! Fork rebuilding at it's finest!! What a day it's been. It just keeps getting better!
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
Here is the fork disassembled as far as I need it anyway. I did not remove the rest of the parts as this job did not require it. This is after draining all the fluid from the fork and actuating the rod until all the fluid released and the valve moved both up and down with great ease. The rebound leg with fluid will pull out hard and fall back in fast. The compression side will pull out fast and fall back in slowly. Without fluid (so you know they are drained, they move both in and out freely. You can also see the stock spring is 1" shorter than the new longer Racetech 1.0 kg spring. We'll deal with this in another post.
The dust cap and fork seal pop out quite easily using a flat screwdriver and prying up. Be careful not to stick it all the way under either of these and scratch the tube surfaces. The clip itself is VERY easy to get out with the same screwdriver.
Now we can start assembly. Clean all parts of any debris. Lightly lube the tube and dust cap with new fork oil. I forgot to take a pic of the plastic to install the dust cap with but you'll see this on the seal install. Install the dust cap on the inner tube in the correct orientation.
I did this with the dust cap but here it is for installing the new oil seal. Cover the of of the tube with plastic to protect the seals.
Press the seal on carefully over the plastic evenly. The orientation is numbered side of the seal facing down on the inner tube so that when you set the tube, the numbers are facing up on the outer tube.
Place the clip over the dust seal in the ready position.
Do NOT forget the washer that goes under the seal.
Lightly lube all parts that will mate up along with the tube once again.
The dust cap and fork seal pop out quite easily using a flat screwdriver and prying up. Be careful not to stick it all the way under either of these and scratch the tube surfaces. The clip itself is VERY easy to get out with the same screwdriver.
Now we can start assembly. Clean all parts of any debris. Lightly lube the tube and dust cap with new fork oil. I forgot to take a pic of the plastic to install the dust cap with but you'll see this on the seal install. Install the dust cap on the inner tube in the correct orientation.
I did this with the dust cap but here it is for installing the new oil seal. Cover the of of the tube with plastic to protect the seals.
Press the seal on carefully over the plastic evenly. The orientation is numbered side of the seal facing down on the inner tube so that when you set the tube, the numbers are facing up on the outer tube.
Place the clip over the dust seal in the ready position.
Do NOT forget the washer that goes under the seal.
Lightly lube all parts that will mate up along with the tube once again.
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
To hold the retaining clip while I turned the tubes into each other, I hooked it carefully around the dust cap.
Now with the tubes mated, the seal slides down into the well and we're ready to drive it home.
Here is the Motion Pro 43mm fork seal driver. Heavy little guy! Make sure the insides are clean and then lightly lube the surface.
In place, you will see this gap. This is normal. Up about 5" and drive the seal in with 2 or 3 small whacks. You'll know when it is all the way in by the sound of the last whack. These don't need to be Hulk or Superman hits!!!
You can barely see it but yes, the clip is in there. Start one end into the groove and the rest of it easily snaps into place. You can nudge it carefully with a small flathead screwdriver.
Slide the dust cap down and firmly press it into place. This doesn't take a lot of force either.
Now for my version of the rod extension. Yup, one nut and one long zip-tie! Cheap and effective!
Load the fork with oil then slowly work the valve rod up and down at least 10 times. Then set it aside, go take a leak, get a drink and come back in 10 - 15 minutes to be sure all the air bubbles have worked up to the top. Work the rod a couple more times SLOWLY and watch for bubbles. None? You're good!
Now we have to set the fork oil level. This is done with the rod all the way up and no spring installed. I have the Motion Pro fork oil level tool for this. The fork requires 91mm from the top of the fully compressed outer tube.
Outer tube down...check! Rod extended all the way up? Check! Tool in place? Check!
Now with the tubes mated, the seal slides down into the well and we're ready to drive it home.
Here is the Motion Pro 43mm fork seal driver. Heavy little guy! Make sure the insides are clean and then lightly lube the surface.
In place, you will see this gap. This is normal. Up about 5" and drive the seal in with 2 or 3 small whacks. You'll know when it is all the way in by the sound of the last whack. These don't need to be Hulk or Superman hits!!!
You can barely see it but yes, the clip is in there. Start one end into the groove and the rest of it easily snaps into place. You can nudge it carefully with a small flathead screwdriver.
Slide the dust cap down and firmly press it into place. This doesn't take a lot of force either.
Now for my version of the rod extension. Yup, one nut and one long zip-tie! Cheap and effective!
Load the fork with oil then slowly work the valve rod up and down at least 10 times. Then set it aside, go take a leak, get a drink and come back in 10 - 15 minutes to be sure all the air bubbles have worked up to the top. Work the rod a couple more times SLOWLY and watch for bubbles. None? You're good!
Now we have to set the fork oil level. This is done with the rod all the way up and no spring installed. I have the Motion Pro fork oil level tool for this. The fork requires 91mm from the top of the fully compressed outer tube.
Outer tube down...check! Rod extended all the way up? Check! Tool in place? Check!
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BDazzler
Wizard
Awesome. I'm excited to hear about how it all performs together with the new rear.
I'm not sure this is something I'd be comfortable doing, but who knows. We'll see how I feel when the time comes. It would be nice not to have so much dive on braking. Keep going. Bust a knuckle! (rather than break a leg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm not sure this is something I'd be comfortable doing, but who knows. We'll see how I feel when the time comes. It would be nice not to have so much dive on braking. Keep going. Bust a knuckle! (rather than break a leg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
Last post for the forks... whew!
Pull the plunger on the fork oil level tool until it sucks air all the while making sure the rod is extended and the tool remains flush with the top of the tube. You now have 91mm of free space available.
Now it's time to cut the OEM spacer. You can see here the stock spring and spacer stacked with the new spring and the required washer. Mark the spacer at the top of the washer. Cut how you see fit. I used a pipe cutter.
Before installing the cap and after compressing the spring, make SURE there is 12mm of rod showing above the rod nut. Do this with the spring retaining tool in place. I forgot to get a pic of that! Anyways, here is is after compressing the spring, assembling the stack and installing the cap.
Both forks back in the triples. I like my ride set with 6mm of pure black showing above the triples. Oh, and those new HEL Brake lines.... snazzy!
All bolted up, double-checked and ready for a shakedown run.
Pull the plunger on the fork oil level tool until it sucks air all the while making sure the rod is extended and the tool remains flush with the top of the tube. You now have 91mm of free space available.
Now it's time to cut the OEM spacer. You can see here the stock spring and spacer stacked with the new spring and the required washer. Mark the spacer at the top of the washer. Cut how you see fit. I used a pipe cutter.
Before installing the cap and after compressing the spring, make SURE there is 12mm of rod showing above the rod nut. Do this with the spring retaining tool in place. I forgot to get a pic of that! Anyways, here is is after compressing the spring, assembling the stack and installing the cap.
Both forks back in the triples. I like my ride set with 6mm of pure black showing above the triples.
Oh, and those new HEL Brake lines.... snazzy!All bolted up, double-checked and ready for a shakedown run.
FZ1riderNY
Moderator
Awesome "how to" Eric. That is going to help a lot of people out. Especially those who are nervous about doing it themselves. It's only slightly hard the first time. Once you learn the tricks it's easy going from then on! Great job!
amevl
Wizard
hold on there cowboy you forgot one very important detail.................. clean the damn bike!!!!
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
Thanks Billy! The first one was a lot of head scratching. I had the impression that the new spring would be shorter and I'd be shimming with the 18 washers they sent, not using one per fork and cutting the stock spacers. After the first one was done, I did the second one in no time. Of course, I didn't have to stop for notes, pictures and research.
After this was done, I put on my new inner fairing panels. I had to drill out the two holes on the left one for the power outlet and heated grip switch.
Now I'm too damned tired to even attempt a shakedown run. I'll leave it for a cautious commute tomorrow to get a feel for it then work it a little on the way home. My initial impression is the front is QUITE stiff and in the garage it takes a lot to compress the front.
I did go with 7w in the rebound and 5w in the compression per Duken4evr.
After this was done, I put on my new inner fairing panels. I had to drill out the two holes on the left one for the power outlet and heated grip switch.
Now I'm too damned tired to even attempt a shakedown run. I'll leave it for a cautious commute tomorrow to get a feel for it then work it a little on the way home. My initial impression is the front is QUITE stiff and in the garage it takes a lot to compress the front.
I did go with 7w in the rebound and 5w in the compression per Duken4evr.
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
LOL! For me, cleaning it is not priority. I ride it in every type of weather that doesn't involve ice.
But I will because it IS dirtier than normal by a long shot!