Eric's Gen II Suspension notebook w/ Penske & USD Forks DIY manual!

Nice job on the shrink tubing Eric! I had seen your suggestion a while back and tried it on my clamps as well since I really didn't care for how the electrical tape job turned out. I went with regular shrink tubing (I think it was 3/8") and used the heat gun. It looks decent. Will post some pics when I mount the shock in the next few days.
 
I got as far as putting a rag on the tank to loosen the fork cap and it didnt even budge wrench rounded the corners off some so I abandoned the whole project till I can get the damn cap loose.
 
loosened the upper triple did not back out preload.its been one of them days here rain on and off,HVAC problems with truck, blah blah blah.
 
That is what I did. I left them clamped in the lower triple, loosen the upper triple, backed off the pre-load and put the big socket on. Came right off. Because it is soft metal and a shallow cut, I put the ratchet on and leaned into the center of it to keep the socket flush with the cap, then pulled on the handle.
 
my tools from Traxxion showed up today and got my cobalt FZ returned to stock suspension.tommorrow should tackle the rebuild of my suspension with the AK 20 valves and .95 springs and new fork seals.Thanks for the awesome thread Eric I may add some pics as well if you dont mind.
 
amevl said:
my tools from Traxxion showed up today and got my cobalt FZ returned to stock suspension.tommorrow should tackle the rebuild of my suspension with the AK 20 valves and .95 springs and new fork seals.Thanks for the awesome thread Eric I may add some pics as well if you dont mind.
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Absolutely Jeff! Anything that helps out the next member is great!
 
got the seal driver got everything put back together but the rebound adjustment screw wont turn any ideas?everything else is working fine.
 
amevl said:
got the seal driver got everything put back together but the rebound adjustment screw wont turn any ideas?everything else is working fine.
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Did you set the thread depth to 12mm and hold the lock nut while only turning the cap? When seating the spacer, the funky washer slid all the way up the cap right?
 
I will have to open it back up tommorrow.I left about 1/2" of rod showing above the nut and everything slid up properly.strangly enuff when I push on the fork leg it returns slowly.primed the cartridge b4 I put it back together
 
Great write up and documentation on this.

I just ordered an Ohlins S46HR1CIS rear shock for my 06 FZ1. I have an 07 R1 with Ohlins TTX rear and R&T forks, so I am taking my R1 forks and having them serviced with some new valving and springs, and will be replacing the forks on my FZ1 with the R1 OEM forks, changing the rotor and calipers for the OEM rotors and calipers as well, upgrading the master to a Brembo 19RCS and doing some stainless lines. It's the one thing that I feel is lacking on the FZ1 after riding my R1 with full kit of brakes and suspension.

I have been enjoying the creature comforts of the FZ1 over the R1, but the R1 is built for the track and riding hard on the street, the FZ needs a bit of love for my 270-290 pound body, as well as getting my wife on the back with me. Overall, this should improve it all, and having the instructions to do the swap myself helps.
 
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Penske 8983 rear shock length

Does the Penske 8983 rear shock work okay at stock length or is handling improving by lengthening the shock? I like to ride the turns fast and I'm running stock forks. Any suggestions are appreciated. thanks
 
It will work amazing at any length. Most prefer the 5mm increase in height, but you can also accomplish that same feeling by raising the front forks up 5-6mm in the triple trees. That is free and cheap to do before you even get the shock. Will feel like it wants to dive into the corners more.
 
PapaGeno21 said:
It will work amazing at any length. Most prefer the 5mm increase in height, but you can also accomplish that same feeling by raising the front forks up 5-6mm in the triple trees. That is free and cheap to do before you even get the shock. Will feel like it wants to dive into the corners more.
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I got the advice to raise the forks and to start with 5-7mm. My mechanic said that wouldn't make any difference and raised them 10mm, and what a difference ! It suddenly felt like a proper sports bike. When I installed my new Nitron shock, which had a +5mm length increase compared to stock, the bike felt just a bit less "dive-into-corner-prone" but much more planted, and my overall confidence in the bike is far greater now. It goes like a train ..
Oh, I also switched to Dunlop Roadsmart 2 rear and Roadsmart 1 front. The roadsmart 2 rear is much better for this bike than the Roadsmart 1. The 1 slipped often under medium throttle (in the bends) but the 2 doesn't. It's just awesome how much grip you have. I'm leaving gixxers and fireblades in the dust on the twisties now, all without breaking a sweat, it just feels comfortable and safe
 
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javahaxxor said:
Done ! After a couple of cuts and bruises .. The pipes from the ABS unit were in the way so i had to loosen the subframe bolts, footpeg bolts and remove the tank bolt . I also removed the battery so the weight would not bend anything . I also reversed the upper bolt so i won't have to deal with this again. Should i grease the shock eyes?

Sent from my mobile phone, please excuse the brevity
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I had the same problem with my GenII shock top bolt removal.

It took a bit of headscratching but in the end I filed the collar of the bolt flat on one side and then the bolts just squeezes past the abs piping.

Ive reversed the bolt for re-assembly.
 
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