150hp <--> 100hp

SETH46

New Member
Might not hurt to throw some more fuel in there at the 100% throttle column at lower revs. Will you hurt your engine if you leave it like it is? Hard to tell, but since I do see that it riches up at the top end you might be ok. Still if it was my bike I wouldn't want it running that lean on the bottom end. What map are you using?

I do have to say that looking at your dyno run there it seem sto be extremely lean and it may be more a function of the O2 sensor that was used than anything else. If you look at the stock A/F ration then that's more or less what you want yours to look like (probably a little leaner). Do you know if that stock A/F ratio was done on that dyno using the same O2 sensor as well?
Yeah everythin on the read out was done on that Dyno, same place, same guy, same gear.

I'm using a map from the Duken Pack off the other site.
Using a STAGE 3 map by JonDaddy82 (everythin mod'ed but standard headers)

Might use the Dukes Perfection Map again, much richer fuel throughout the map, especially low down.

Seth
 

N2OEQIP

New Member
He beat me to it. Reason I asked what fuel. 13.5+ still to crispy for my tastes. 12.5 a/f to allow if for some reason you get a lower oct fuel. Like here in the US even though it says 93 oct, you never know if the truck driver to meet quota dumped the rest of his 87 oct in there... better to be safer then sorry.
 
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FZ1inTX

Adminstrator
He beat me to it. Reason I asked what fuel. 13.5+ still to crispy for my tastes. 12.5 a/f to allow if for some reason you get a lower oct fuel. Like here in the US even though it says 93 oct, you never know if the truck driver to meet quota dumped the rest of his 87 oct in there... better to be safer then sorry.
Unless you are running the ignition module and advancing the timing, there's never a need to run over 87 octane.
 

FZ1inTX

Adminstrator
Thats for another debate. Owner manual says Premium, I'll use it.
Mine does not say premium so I don't. And the dealer told me 87 octane as well.

Here's the US/Canada ratings:


And here is the page from the manual for the bike. Just to be sure, I logged into My Yamaha and downloaded the copy there. Hope this helps. :tup:

 
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N2OEQIP

New Member
I'd rather not find the, "if knocking (or pinging) occurs, use a gasoline of a different brand or premium unleaded fuel". So again as per the manual 91+
 

FZ1inTX

Adminstrator
I'd rather not find the, "if knocking (or pinging) occurs, use a gasoline of a different brand or premium unleaded fuel". So again as per the manual 91+
That is the RON rating which the US and Canada do not use. You are reading this incorrectly. 86 or higher is the US/Canada rating. 91 RON is the same rating in the US.
 

N2OEQIP

New Member
[(R+M)/2] is the formula you are referring to?? I'll take a pic of the pump. Pretty Sure its on there.
 
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FZ1inTX

Adminstrator
[(R+M)/2] is the formula you are referring to?? I'll take a pic of the pump. Pretty Sure its on there.
Yes, [(R+M)/2] and as stated above in the manual, that is 86 or higher. The 91 "research octane number" or RON is the non-US/Canada formula that coincides with a US/CA [(R+M)/2] rating but we don't use RON values here in the US.

The pumps around here all state a [(R+M)/2] formula and I use the regular or 87 rating because the manual states I should. It states to only use the higher rated fuel should knocking or pinging occur but in all my years of Yamaha riding, I've never had a knock or ping in any of these bikes on [(R+M)/2] 87 rated fuel.

Now, if you take the bike to Europe, you will not find a fuel with this formula or rating because they sell RON rated fuel. That formula rates the octane higher and I believe their "regular" over there is a RON 95 fuel which is even that much more highly rated than our fuels here.

I'm not trying to pick an argument, just stating the facts as I have studied them. Hope this helps to explain a bit. ;)
 

N2OEQIP

New Member
the knocks or pings wont be heard by a human ear, Do these motors not have knock sensors??? I'm gonna do some more searching. I could have sworn that there was a sticker on my bike that says prem fuel only. And No I also am not trying to cause a fight either.
 
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rukiez

New Member
hey guys,


i dont know if its too late or not...after reading the manual...part by part..

the thread starter did something to the meter...is actually diagnosis...

nothing to do with hp or speed or wat so ever....

try reading page 8-48....

its a trick!!! hahahahha
 

Oldschool

Moderator
hey guys,


i dont know if its too late or not...after reading the manual...part by part..

the thread starter did something to the meter...is actually diagnosis...

nothing to do with hp or speed or wat so ever....

try reading page 8-48....

its a trick!!! hahahahha
I believe that was proven on a dyno run. No real difference either way.
 

frosty

New Member
Hi, I tried this set up posted above - after going through the push this butto etc etc I got to the part where you see the ecu unit flashing on the rev counter screen, I live in sydney australia and as far as I believe the bike should be as the manufaturers say - 147bhp , the thing is - the ecu symbol was flashing, so my bike(if this whole procedure actually works) was set to 100bhp . Anyway , i drove it for 2 days - can't say I felt any difference at all. I've since put it back in the original setting as I'm not sure this actually works. I've just sold my 07 fireblade 1000rr and can say my 09 fz1 is not far behind on the power stats on either setting . Gotta say I think someone has maybe made this up ?
 

n0rdy

New Member
I know that this work on the french model, because I did it on my own bike. You have to plug a 0,75mm2 cable to pin 19, and then put the other end to ground. (try to put it where the stock cables are mounted). After you've done this, you push the buttons on the speedo as mentioned earlier.
My bike would only do 220 km/h with 100hp, and that was also what my speedohealer logged. After i did the fix with the wire, my bike went up to 250 km/h on the speedohealer, and I didn't max the bike out. It' also much better in low and mid rpms
 
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moosecapades

New Member
Conspiracy Theory



Interesting Theory.
If you have read the whole thread then you should know, from other members posts, that in the US the blinking light setting make next to no difference. The Slight difference in the Dyno run, (Show me don't tell Me) proved that. The minor difference could have been from other factors such as temperature changes from one run to the next, considering how close they were.

Perhaps in Europe or elsewere this setting actually does something, considering we know that the ECU's are different from Austrailia to the US and Canada for instance. And Yes what you say is true about the manufacturers agreement about horsepower limits. But that applied to the upper end of the power in the top sportbikes, that agreed that no machine would exceed 200 hp not 100hp. This obviously does not apply to the FZ as it is not Marketed to be the fastest thing that Yamaha sells.

Back to Conspiracy Theories. I hear that the blinking light setting is actually a programming glitch indicator for the Mind Control program that Yamaha installed to get customers to buy aftermarket goodies for their FZs. No wonder I have this overwhelming desire to get the belly fairing, and a Yamaha cover for the bike! Hmmmmm.:poke:
Does it remove the 1rst to 3rd torque restriction on gen II US bikes?
 
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