2007 FZ1 sputters/misses between 2K & 3K

My bike may do something similar...

except that its not for 2k to 4k, its starting directly from a stopped or neutral position and its only in first gear. I just bought the bike, 06 FZ1 with 4500 miles on it. The guy described it as a small "BUTTERFLY" when taking off from first gear. Does anyone know this term or heard it before???

Basically I cant just easily let out the clutch while rolling on the throttle below 2k or else the bike will sound like its sputtering, then when it does engage it takes off perfectly. Very strange to me, not disabling just annoying. I'm used to my old bike where I did not need to rev to 2k and up to take off. I can still make the bike move by slightly releasing clutch but as soon as throttle is given it gets iffy (IF UNDER 2K). I have a few perfect take offs but if I under rev it, the bike sputters a little bit...

Do you think throttle sync could help this? Wasn't sure if this is same issue your experiencing NELLJ but any help would greatly be appreciated.
 
2007 Misses/sputters a low RPM

I checked to see if the headers heated up. They all did.

I want to bite so bad on the kinked fuel line, but I was having this problem wll before chagning the plugs and having to lift the tank. It would be so easy to order the new line which is only $40.

Before taking it in for the throttle body sync, I will look up the manometer.
 
Have you checked the air filter recently? My bike was having a hard time idleing (especially when cold). Took the air filter out and hammered it on the concrete (perfectly acceptable fix) and put it back in. Now it runs as it should. I have a new one on order, too.

Good luck,

MrHix
 
Yes, I did check the air filter.

That was one of the first things I did. Thanks.

My next move is to get the throttle body sync done, and after that I will buy the new fuel line and try that.
 
2007 FZ1 stumbles/misses at low RPM

It does sound pretty familiar. My little hesitation comes and goes. When it has been at its worst, it occurred at all RPM's, but mostly now on acceleration between 2K and 5K. I would try the throttle body sync at least to follow with the maintenance schedule and see any differences when it is done, and to rule that out if this problem occurs again. I've got my bike in the shop right now and will know later today what the diagnosis is.


except that its not for 2k to 4k, its starting directly from a stopped or neutral position and its only in first gear. I just bought the bike, 06 FZ1 with 4500 miles on it. The guy described it as a small "BUTTERFLY" when taking off from first gear. Does anyone know this term or heard it before???

Basically I cant just easily let out the clutch while rolling on the throttle below 2k or else the bike will sound like its sputtering, then when it does engage it takes off perfectly. Very strange to me, not disabling just annoying. I'm used to my old bike where I did not need to rev to 2k and up to take off. I can still make the bike move by slightly releasing clutch but as soon as throttle is given it gets iffy (IF UNDER 2K). I have a few perfect take offs but if I under rev it, the bike sputters a little bit...

Do you think throttle sync could help this? Wasn't sure if this is same issue your experiencing NELLJ but any help would greatly be appreciated.
 
Really sounds like a bad coil to me. They tend to fail slowly with an erratic pattern to the misfiring/stuttering.
Often a bad coil will show worse symptoms once the motor is warm.
Have you checked to be sure all the boots are firmly seated to the spark plugs ?

A throttle body out of sync will have CONSTANT symptoms .....They wont come and go.
 
Really sounds like a bad coil to me. They tend to fail slowly with an erratic pattern to the misfiring/stuttering.
Often a bad coil will show worse symptoms once the motor is warm.
Have you checked to be sure all the boots are firmly seated to the spark plugs ?

A throttle body out of sync will have CONSTANT symptoms .....They wont come and go.

Agreed, did you ever spray the coils with water?
 
2007 FZ1 stumbles/hesitates at low RPM

Thank you. I think we're getting there. Just the way it sounds when it is idling, that is what it sounds like, but after testing to make sure all of the headers were heating up has me confused. Would the header pipe still be heating up if the coil was bad? If it does, I am really beginning to think my problem initially was a combination of a bad plug and a coil beginning to go on the fritz.

I'll make sure that the coils are seated on the plugs when I get it back from the shop today.

I want my baby back running well!!!


Really sounds like a bad coil to me. They tend to fail slowly with an erratic pattern to the misfiring/stuttering.
Often a bad coil will show worse symptoms once the motor is warm.
Have you checked to be sure all the boots are firmly seated to the spark plugs ?

A throttle body out of sync will have CONSTANT symptoms .....They wont come and go.
 
Coils either go bad externally, I.e cracked plastic or worn insulators, or they go bad internally I.e. high resistance or open circuit. Spraying the checks the external structure. If its bad on the outside the spark will jump to the easiest ground. Spraying it will cause a misfire and rough running at idle if there is a structural problem with the coil because the coil will arc before the spark plug.
 
Coils either go bad externally, I.e cracked plastic or worn insulators, or they go bad internally I.e. high resistance or open circuit. Spraying the checks the external structure. If its bad on the outside the spark will jump to the easiest ground. Spraying it will cause a misfire and rough running at idle if there is a structural problem with the coil because the coil will arc before the spark plug.

I'm on it! Thanks!!
 
Mine did this and it was not the coils. It ended up being a bad reading from two sensors on the bike that displayed two error codes on the bike. Even if those sensors are good, the ECU will not go back and check them until you reset the codes in DIAG mode. Once I cleared those codes, the bike ran fine and they did not come back. Most of the information you require is in this thread: http://www.998cc.org/forum/gen-ii-g...ange-problem-my-gen-ii-updated-pics-info.html

Enter DIAG mode with the kill switch in the "NO RUN" position, go to d61 and wait 15 seconds... if it displays 00, there are no stored codes (or you did not heed the kill switch warning) but if there are codes, note the numbers (multiple codes will be displayed in order two seconds apart). After writing them down, move to d62 and flip the kill switch to RUN position. Move the kill switch back to stop and go back to d61 to verify a 00 reading.

Start and ride the bike... If it stops sputtering, you are OK. If it stops and then starts sputtering again, then recheck the codes, note them and test the items according to the manual.
 
2007 FZ1 sputter misses at low RPM

Just ran that by the mechanic. He is going to try and reset and see what that does.

Also, in that last thread I saw something related to the drive.

Maybe this is the missing piece of the puzzle. I had snapped a chain and ended up buying a chain with no return policy that was too short. I ended up having to drop down to a smaller countershaft sprocket and rear sprocket. My speedometer doesn't even read the correct MPH anymore. It is always reading 10-20mph faster than the speed I am going.

With all I am learning of the intricacies of the onboard computers, could this be the problem? This is about the time this whole mess started.


Mine did this and it was not the coils. It ended up being a bad reading from two sensors on the bike that displayed two error codes on the bike. Even if those sensors are good, the ECU will not go back and check them until you reset the codes in DIAG mode. Once I cleared those codes, the bike ran fine and they did not come back. Most of the information you require is in this thread: http://www.998cc.org/forum/gen-ii-g...ange-problem-my-gen-ii-updated-pics-info.html

Enter DIAG mode with the kill switch in the "NO RUN" position, go to d61 and wait 15 seconds... if it displays 00, there are no stored codes (or you did not heed the kill switch warning) but if there are codes, note the numbers (multiple codes will be displayed in order two seconds apart). After writing them down, move to d62 and flip the kill switch to RUN position. Move the kill switch back to stop and go back to d61 to verify a 00 reading.

Start and ride the bike... If it stops sputtering, you are OK. If it stops and then starts sputtering again, then recheck the codes, note them and test the items according to the manual.
 
after testing to make sure all of the headers were heating up has me confused. Would the header pipe still be heating up if the coil was bad? !


Header temp wont tell you much unless the misfire is severe or the cylinder completely dead. If your only experiencing a slight misfire that is intermittent header temp wont change much if at all.

Start with checking your codes as previously suggested.
 
The mechanic has thrown up his hands. He has no clue as to what is wrong. Anyone have a match for the $200 I just put in the fire pit?






Just ran that by the mechanic. He is going to try and reset and see what that does.

Also, in that last thread I saw something related to the drive.

Maybe this is the missing piece of the puzzle. I had snapped a chain and ended up buying a chain with no return policy that was too short. I ended up having to drop down to a smaller countershaft sprocket and rear sprocket. My speedometer doesn't even read the correct MPH anymore. It is always reading 10-20mph faster than the speed I am going.

With all I am learning of the intricacies of the onboard computers, could this be the problem? This is about the time this whole mess started.
 
Awesome! That really is what mine is doing.

I am going to pull them and check them this weekend.

Thanks!!


Just know that often coils will test within spec in the early stages of failure. If the coil fails internally it can be hard to tell. If the failure is external spark leak you should see some cracks, burn marks or other signs. Sometimes you can wrap a coil in electrical tape for a short term fix.
 
Yeah, the coils are suspect - and they have a history of slowly going bad. they seem like the weakest link of the whole motor.

But some of your descriptions of how the engine is behaving makes me think that a sensor or sensors may be bad - sending bad info to the computer - which then controls the fuel mixture improperly.

Oxygen sensor, temperature sensor, --- even a throttle position sensor could be bad.

More for you to think about.
 
Thanks!!! I really appreciate it. I am just going to replace all the coils.

Just know that often coils will test within spec in the early stages of failure. If the coil fails internally it can be hard to tell. If the failure is external spark leak you should see some cracks, burn marks or other signs. Sometimes you can wrap a coil in electrical tape for a short term fix.
 
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