R1 Fork Conversion on the way!

Hellgate said:
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I still some air in the brake lines. After cooking off I'll bleed them again. I think the air is in the M/C as the bleed screws at the calipers are running clear. I'm going to order a second set of speed bleeders, one for the M/C, the second I'll put on the rear caliper.
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Yea, that wouldn't surprise me that you still have air trapped in the master cylinder or right at the top banjo bolt. If no air is coming out at the calipers, but you still have a lot of travel at the lever I would suspect trapped air. A bleed screw at the top banjo makes the job easier or you can just simply wrap a rag around the banjo bolt and slightly loosen it while holding the lever. After 2 or 3 cycles the air should be gone.
 
NJFZ1 said:
Yea, that wouldn't surprise me that you still have air trapped in the master cylinder or right at the top banjo bolt. If no air is coming out at the calipers, but you still have a lot of travel at the lever I would suspect trapped air. A bleed screw at the top banjo makes the job easier or you can just simply wrap a rag around the banjo bolt and slightly loosen it while holding the lever. After 2 or 3 cycles the air should be gone.
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I will vouch for that! I had the same issue when I switched to the HEL Lines. Tony advised me of the MC needing to be bled and sure enough, as soon as I did bleed it, the brakes were hard as a rock!
 
I haven't had a chance to rebleed them but I did adjust the lever out two clicks. It fits my hand better and gives a firmer pull, go figure. I'm still going to bleed them one more time.

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Hellgate said:
I haven't had a chance to rebleed them but I did adjust the lever out two clicks. It fits my hand better and gives a firmer pull, go figure. I'm still going to bleed them one more time.

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Watch this video from SportsbikeTrackGear.com.
It's an excellent tutorial on bleeding R1 brakes.
They start with the MC and then move onto the calipers.
It looks too easy.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkxcQzhgJLU]Motorcycle Brake Bleeding Procedure from Sportbiketrackgear.com - YouTube[/ame]
 
Oh I've bled them three cycles. But there is still a little bubble somewhere in the system. I suspect it is air that backflows around the nipple on the M/C. I'll remove it and wrap teflon tape around the threads. This prevents the air from backflowing. 99% of the time this solves the problem.
 
Pete my procedure take a little time but effective. Do the master first then squeeze hold open close repeat many time move to next caliper repeat. Squeeze only once do not pump.


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Here's the R1 fork swap done with Ohlins FGRT 801 forks, R1 6 piston calipers, and 2010 R1 "narrow-path" rotors.

Notice the white/green band around the fork tube just above the machined fork bottom. When it's slid up to the outer fork tube, it will measure the fork dive. Also notice titanium rotor and caliper bolts, a light-weight touch that will never corrode.
 
eurban said:
The 07/08 R1 forks I have on my FZ are around 12mm shorter than the stock FZ pieces. I have the forks down just a bit in the tripples so the difference is a small bit less. I also have a ride height adjustable Penske in the back which is set about 5mm longer than stock. Turn in much improved and I have found no indication of over twitchiness or "death wobbles." . . . .

The overall experience is much improved from the stock setup. The spring rate on 07/08 front seems just right for duty in the FZ with my 150 lbs. I have sag set where I like it and room to go in either direction. The forks handle the crap roads around DC nicely yet give improved sporting performance once dialed in. The 6 piston brakes and radial MC provide good feel and powerful stopping. Installation was very straight forward; I used the complete(except for the trees) 07/08 setup including forks, calipers, rotors and mc. If you want to keep your stock rotors the calipers would need to be shimmed to clear their larger diameter. Better to use the R1 pieces IMHO.

From what i have read the earlier R1 setups offer similar results. The forks are reported to be 10-15mm shorter. The spring rate may not be as high as the later R1 so a new set of springs might be required particularly for larger individuals. Rotors are the same size so that is one less piece to buy. The 4 piston radial brakes seem to work well.

I would use either a stock r1 radial design MC or aftemarket rather than the stock FZ one. If you are going to the trouble and expense of doing this upgrade it seems foolish not to complete the swap. The FZ's unit is not a radial design and didn't provide the same quality feel (I tried it!) that the R1 MC does. BTW, brake lines for the stock FZ figuration worked OK with R1 calipers and mc.

Enjoy!
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Hey did you have to switch the front mud guard with the 08 forks? Cheers
 
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